Zhemgang district is located in the south-central region of Bhutan. The district has traditionally been divided into three main regions called the Khengrig Namsum, or the “Sacred Realm of Three Hills”. These are Upper Kheng, Middle Kheng and Lower Kheng.
About 86% of the total area of Zhemgang is under forest cover, because of which the district is blessed with a rich biodiversity including no less than 22 endangered animal species among whom we find the endemic Golden Langur.
Zhemgang district is known as one of the last strongholds of non-Buddhist religious practices generally grouped under Bon. Nearly every locality has its own Bon priest known as the Bonpo. With the growing influence and reputation of the central monk body, the people today practice a combination of the old Bon religion and Buddhism.
The Khengpas, as the region’s people are called, have preserved a rich culture, and folk songs such as Bu Moi Karmai Wangzom are sung by Kheng women during the region’s annual cultivation of cotton. These folk songs are now in danger of being lost as the younger generations migrate to the urban area in search of non-agricultural employment.
Historical sites in Zhemgang include those built by the famous treasure revealer Pema Lingpa in the 15th century. The Buli Lhakhang and the Tharpa Choeling Lhakhang are two such monuments. The Gomphu Lhakhang in Middle Kheng includes a sacred crematorium founded by Shacha Yoezer believed to be sited over an area formerly occupied by a sacred lake.
The main cash crop of the region is citrus mandarin (orange) and the staple diet is maize, rice and wheat. Some of the region’s people are also well known for their skills in weaving cane products which are sold in other parts of the country. The mandarin oranges are exported to India and Bangladesh.
Khengpas are also skilled craftspeople and the region’s most famous and nationally recognised products include Bangchungs (matted bamboo plates), Palangs (alcohol containers), Balaks (hats), Paris (mats), Zems (boxes), Aumbuli (small containers) and Bangkhaps (bamboo winnowers). The Khengpas are also skilled potters and make earthenware for cooking and distilling alcohol which were traded favorably in other parts of the country in the past for basic necessities such as salt, knives and baking powder. The people of Kheng live in traditional homes built from rock, mud and wood while in the more rural and remote interiors one also finds simpler dwellings fashioned from bamboo thatch and plantain leaves.
Zhemgang is one of the least developed districts. Most of the villages are situated in far-flung areas that take days to reach. Modern amenities such as schools and basic health units have sprung up in recent years and include the Yebilaptsa hospital established with the help of the Norwegian Santal Mission. The district is a gateway to the Royal Manas National Park, which has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its wealth of biodiversity.